CHANEL Research Continues to Innovate in Microfluidics and Launches the First Cream with Camellia Micro-Droplets

PR67764

PARIS, Mar. 13, 2017 /PRNewswire=KYODO JBN/--

     With the creation of HYDRA BEAUTY Micro Creme, the first cream based on

camellia micro-droplets, CHANEL Research has taken a new step in the area of

microfluidics for cosmetics. This product is the result of CHANEL's continuous

commitment to scientific innovation.  

     MICROFLUIDICS IN COSMETICS, A NEW FORM OF EMULSION

     Microfluidics make it possible to manipulate fluids with high accuracy at

a micrometric scale. At this scale, capillary forces prevail over gravity.

Thanks to a system where the flow is controlled and high, it is possible to

shape droplets one by one and control their size.

     This accurate calibration produces an emulsion whose structuration is more

orderly than with conventional technologies. Droplet stability is secured by a

complex coacervation process which combines two polymers interacting together

in the manner of "molecular velcro tapes" to form an evanescent membrane.

     The result: droplets in which a new high value-added fat-soluble active

ingredient is protected until application. These perfectly calibrated and

stable droplets burst instantly upon application with outstanding moisturizing

efficiency for the skin. As they burst on the skin without leaving any residue,

these droplets create an unparalleled sensory experience unmatched in

traditional emulsions.

     NEW TECHNOLOGICAL CHALLENGES

     In partnership with the French start-up Capsum, CHANEL Research teams have

met new technological challenges in microfluidics in order to offer HYDRA

BEAUTY Micro Creme today.

     The first challenge: producing a microfluidic cream for packaging in jars.

     Since the droplets are delicate and evanescent, their resistance has been

enhanced in comparison with serums in airless packaging, without losing their

unique sensorial profile. The result: droplets do not burst when they are

scooped out of the jar but only when the cream is applied to the face.  The

joint CHANEL and Capsum team has managed to create gel droplets that are both

evanescent and high-resistance, but also visible to the naked eye in a cream.

     The second challenge: producing a smooth texture through the microfluidic

process.  

     HYDRA BEAUTY Micro Creme combines visible and invisible droplets

stabilized by "molecular velcro tapes" for remarkable application comfort. The

joint CHANEL and Capsum team has managed to integrate a sensory cascade in this

cream, where the fresh feeling of water is followed by the richness of the

oil.  

     The third challenge: blending delicate and evanescent droplets into the

cream.

     To achieve this, a new manufacturing process had to be devised to blend

the droplets into the cream without splitting them while ensuring homogenous

distribution. Machines and production lines were thus tailor designed to

manufacture HYDRA BEAUTY Micro Creme.

BRINGING TOGETHER THE BEST OF MICROFLUIDICS EXPERTISE AND FORMULATION KNOW-HOW

     In 2009 at Harvard University, Christian Mahe, senior Vice-President of

CHANEL Beauty Research and Innovation, met physicist David Weitz, a pioneer of

microfluidics. A visionary and always ready to gamble on fields of fundamental

research seemingly far from the world of Beauty, Christian Mahe, in 2010,

launched an audacious research program bringing together CHANEL and Capsum, a

French start-up created by David Weitz and two other top-level scientists,

Sebastien Bardon, Jerome Bibette.

     Capsum offers its expertise in microfluidics, CHANEL its formulation

know-how and its industrial expertise, to create the following outcome: an

unprecedented technology combining science, craftsmanship (high-precision

materials created one by one) and industry (large-scale production) which

contributes to a revolution for cosmetic emulsions.

     This partnership gave rise to HYDRA BEAUTY Micro Serum in 2015, HYDRA

BEAUTY Micro Gel Yeux in 2016 and today HYDRA BEAUTY Micro Creme. For each one

of these products, technological limits have been pushed further back.

     "This is an example of successful co-development between CHANEL and a

start-up," states Christian Mahe.  "This microfluidics innovation platform is

capable of broadening the scope of possibilities (new technologies, new

visuals, new textures…) to develop tomorrow's cosmetics".

     About CHANEL Research  

     CHANEL Research is CHANEL Fragrance & Beauty's research and development

department. Its mission is to offer solutions that are more efficient, safer,

simpler and enjoyable, to enhance the singular beauty of each and every woman.  

To this end, CHANEL Research has opted for a resolutely systemic approach and

implements integrative methodologies supported by multidisciplinary and

cross-cultural teams.  As part of an open scientific ecosystem, CHANEL Research

develops many international partnerships with teams of academics, start-ups and

industrial players.  A pioneer in the field of cosmetics, CHANEL Research

places innovation at the core of its products and services.

SOURCE: CHANEL Research